Showing posts with label Vietnamese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vietnamese. Show all posts

Monday, February 22, 2010

Pho from Hoa Hong 9 Roses

What I learned on Friday:

1.  It only takes 11 minutes to get to 9 Roses from my house if there is no traffic on or around the bridge.  The same cannot necessarily be said for the return.  Darned toll bridge.


2. 9 Roses has combination pho with sliced flank, meatballs and tendon.  It's pretty good, but somehow not quite as good as I imagined it would be.  The broth could be better... could have deeper flavor.

3.  Same with the chao vit (duck rice porridge).  It was good but not great.  I was a bit disappointed.

The last time I went to Hoa Hong, it was a remarkably great meal though, so I may just have been off myself.  My sinuses were terrible and could have been affecting my taste buds.  I'll try again soon and see if I can provide a better perspective.

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Friday, December 18, 2009

Duck, Three Ways

I love duck, but Kid Cayenne does not. Consequently, I am always on the lookout for somewhere that sells fresh duck breasts, as opposed to a whole one, with the idea that I can cook myself a nice piece of duck breast while making a chicken breast for Kid. So far, I have only found the occasional frozen breast fillet, often pre-seasoned or sauced, and at prices that don't compel me to buy. Maybe my expectations are too high.


Fortunately, I have discovered that roasted duck is a mainstay at Asian markets. I have always seen them, hanging in the prepared food section with the roasted pork and other takeaway items. I never thought about actually taking any away until my Vietnamese hair stylist and I were discussing congee. I was telling her about how in love I am with the duck congee at The Slanted Door in San Francisco, and how I wondered if any of our local restaurants had it on the menu. (I have since discovered that 9 Roses does, and can't wait to try it). I told her that I enjoy making congee at home, but since I am unable to find reasonably priced duck, I can't duplicate my favorite version of it. She told me to check any Asian supermarket for reasonably priced roasted duck and make it with that. Brilliant girl!

Hong Kong Supermarket in Gretna is where I shop for produce, frozen dumplings, sauces and condiments... pretty much all of my Asian food ingredients plus some. If you haven't been, you really should visit. It is a massive store, filled with all the essentials of Asian cooking and way more. The produce is cheap and abundant. There are shelves and shelves of Pocky. It is everything a good Asian grocery should be.

If you go to the prepared foods area, you will see cooked ducks hanging from hooks. Don't be dismayed. They are delicious. You want them. You can buy a whole or half duck. The man behind the counter will ask you if you want it kept intact or cut. I wanted mine cut. This meant that I received an entire half duck, including the head (discreetly tucked under the rest of the meat), chopped into manageable pieces, along with some pickled vegetables and a sweet dipping sauce.



Since I am the only one in the household eating duck, I found that I could get three meals out of it. The first is the most obvious. Grab slices of duck breast, a portion of the pickled carrot and daikon, and your dipping sauce. Eat exactly as it is. Warm or cold, it is quick and wonderful. I had already begun snacking on mine before I had even left the parking lot and then kept dipping into it all across the Crescent City Connection. I am greedy and impatient that way. If you can wait 'til you are home, cook some rice and stir fry a vegetable or two to eat as a side dish for a quick and delicious dinner.

The second way is to prepare a cold duck sandwich. I shredded more of the duck breast and loaded it into pistolette bread along with slivered cucumber, radish and scallions.



I drizzled a bit of the sweet sauce over the whole thing and had a side of pickled veggies, to use what was left of those. You could use whatever bread and accompaniments you like.




The next morning, I made duck congee, a rice porridge of which some version of seems to be made in just about every Asian country I've ever read about. Congee is warm, comforting, infinitely adaptable and deserves an entire post of its own, preferably written about by someone far more knowledgeable than myself. I will just tell you that ever since I learned that you could make an absolutely wonderful breakfast using only a tiny bit of leftover rice from the night before, I have been addicted. You can change the additions, making it different every time, or you can eat it simple and plain for a nourishing, soothing porridge that is perfect for when you are under the weather. Here's how I made it with the last of the duck.

Take approximately half a cup of leftover, cooked rice and add it to a pot filled with about 2 cups (maybe even 3) of water. Add a small chunk of peeled and smashed ginger (it's not necessary to chop the ginger). Bring the water and rice to a boil and then decrease the heat to Medium-Low. Take a duck leg or any leftover piece of duck you have. Shred the duck from the bone, but don't throw the bone or the skin away. As long as the bone is large enough for you to fish back out, use it to season your congee. Put it all in the pot with the rice and water. Now, you will let it simmer for a good while. Congee takes a long time to cook. You are waiting for the rice to break down and give up it's shape, joining with the water to create a porridge. For me, this usually takes about an hour and a half, but I make very small batches. It can take longer or shorter depending on the consistency you like. Stir occasionally and add water if it seems to be getting too low before you have gotten the right consistency.

Once you have achieved a creamy, thick texture, turn off the heat and fish out the bones, skin and the chunk of ginger. Season the rice porridge with a pinch of salt and a nice bit of pepper. Spoon it into your bowl and add whatever condiments you like. In this case, I added chopped scallion, a splash of light soy sauce and some kimchi. The sharp tang of the pickled cabbage was a perfect counterpart to the rich, warm taste of the duck. It was wonderful. I ate 15 bowls of it or something like that. If you are less of a glutton than I am, you can refrigerate your leftovers and reheat the next day, adding a bit of boiling water to it to thin it out.



Tada! Duck! Three ways!

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Thursday, December 17, 2009

Kim Anh's Noodle House

It would be impossible for me to overstate how much I love Vietnamese pho. It's is my go-to for any situation in which I need to be soothed, comforted, or pampered. If I'm sick, if things just don't feel right with the world, if I am cold or lonely... pho cures it. I just lose myself in the warm curls of fragrant steam that waft from a huge bowl of luscious, herb and anise scented beef broth and everything topsy turvy begins to right itself.

Of course it also makes a sunnier day a bit sunnier, a happy occasion that much happier. If hard pressed, I might admit that I think pho could bring about world peace and cure cancer, but thankfully no one is pressing me too terribly hard today. In summary, pho is where it's at.

The best pho I've ever had was in San Francisco at one of the many noodle houses in the Sunset area. Filled with sliced rare beef, beef meatballs and tripe, it was a sensory delight. I haven't been able to find anything as good in New Orleans, but that doesn't stop me from enjoying what we do have.

Living in New Orleans uptown/Carrollton area, I am a bit farther away from all of the best areas for Vietnamese food than I would like to be. I also am usually on my own when I go out for pho and therefore, don't venture as far into neighborhoods I am less familiar with as I might if I had a lunch partner. Consequently, I haven't tried any of the better known pho shops in New Orleans East or on the Westbank. I am certainly open to suggestions for ones that are worth going out of my way for.

Currently, my go-to place is Frosty's on Cleary in Metairie. While I don't often go to Metairie, when I do, they are always my favorite stop. Coupled with the fact that they have absolutely divine bubble teas made from fresh fruit (no syrups), their pho is a delight. The ingredients are always crisp and fresh, the broth is richly flavored. It's lovely.

Yesterday, I had reason to travel out to Harahan and decided to try Kim Anh's Noodle House for the first time. Way, way down Jefferson highway, past the Huey P., past several river bends, I found it. It's housed in a tiny strip mall across the street from Colonial Bowling Lanes, a bit run down and understated. The dining room is very casual, as is usually the case in noodle houses, but clean and larger than I expected. I knew I wanted to order pho tai (pho with sliced beef) but thought I'd try some eggrolls as well. The spring rolls all come in quantities of 2 but I wanted the deep fried, crispy Chả giò rolls which the menu states are in quantities of 4. I was alone and didn't want all 4, but the server offered to let me place a half order.



They arrived perfectly hot and crisp, accompanied by a small salad of lettuce and pickled carrot and radish. The filling was delicious, a balanced blend of pork, shrimp and vegetables that had just the right amount of pepper. I was very pleased.





The pho was nice but not exceptional. I found the broth to be a little too bland for my taste and had to add more sriracha than I generally find necessary. I didn't detect any depth or the layers of anise, clove or beefiness that I look for in good beef pho broth. I even wondered if it had a chicken broth base instead. The plate of accompanying ingredients included the requisite bean sprouts, sliced jalapeno, lime wedges and herbs, in this case thai basil (Frosty's offers cilantro. I find either to be lovely). While not the absolute freshest, it was certainly within the realm of acceptability. The bowl was slightly smaller than I generally see, and cost $6.49. There is the option to upsize to a large bowl for an additional $1.29. I find this convenient, as I've never, ever been able to finish a whole bowl and appreciated the ability to waste less. I did enjoy my meal at Kim Anh's and would visit again if I were in that area, but I don't plan on making it a pho destination.

Where should be next on my list to try? Who has the best pho in the city? Extra points for options that include more than just sliced beef.

Kim Anh's Vietnamese Noodle House
6624 Jefferson Hwy
Harahan, LA 70123
(504) 739-9995
Mon-Fri 10am - 8pm
Closed Saturday and Sunday


Kim Anh's Noodle House on Urbanspoon

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